四、解釋性翻譯

◆ 一日日中時(shí)分，王冕正從母親墳上拜掃回來(lái)，只見(jiàn)十幾騎馬，竟投他村里來(lái)。為頭一人，頭戴武巾，身穿團(tuán)花戰(zhàn)袍，白凈面皮，三綹髭須，真有龍鳳之表!(吳敬梓《儒林外史》第一回)

One day at noon，just as Wang Mien was returning from his mother's grave，he saw a dozen horsemen entering the village．The leader of the band wore a military cap and flowered silk costume．He had a clear complexion，his beard was fine，and he looked every inch a king．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

◆ 這個(gè)人打扮與眾姑娘不同，彩繡輝煌，恍若神妃仙子：頭上戴著金絲八寶攢珠髻，綰著朝陽(yáng)五鳳掛珠釵;項(xiàng)上戴著赤金盤螭瓔珞圈;裙邊系著豆綠宮絳，雙衡比目玫瑰佩;身上穿著縷金百蝶穿花大紅洋緞?wù)y襖，外罩五彩刻絲石青銀鼠褂;下著翡翠撒花洋縐裙。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第三回)

Unlike the girls，she was richly dressed and resplendent as a fairy．

Her gold-filigree tiara was set with jewels and pearls．Her hair-clasps，in the form of five phoenixes facing the sun，had pendants of pearls．Her necklace，of red gold，was in the form of coiled dragon studded with gems．She had double red jade pendants with pea-green tassels attached to her skirt．

Her close-fitting satin jacket was embroidered with gold butterflies and flowers．Her turquoise cape，lined with white squirrel，was inset with designs in colored silk．Her skirt of kingfisher-blue crepe was patterned with flowers．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

【注】“金絲八寶攢珠髻”：用金絲穿綴珍寶和鑲嵌珠寶而制成的珠花髻飾?！鞍藢殹保褐附疸y飾物上鑲嵌的各色珍珠、瑪瑙、碧玉等。“攢”：簇聚?！爸椤保褐钢榛?，用珠寶穿綴成各種花形叫“珠花”。

“朝陽(yáng)五鳳掛珠釵”：一種作鳳凰展翅朝陽(yáng)形、口銜串珠的長(zhǎng)釵。清代婦女首飾，于鈿子上插掛珠子鳳釵，皇族婦女用九支，稱“九鳳朝陽(yáng)”;其他命婦用五支，稱“五鳳朝陽(yáng)”?！皰熘椤保衡O上垂飾，以珠連串而成，多連綴于鳳鳥(niǎo)的銜口上。

“盤螭瓔珞圈”：指一種上有盤龍和瓔珞飾物的項(xiàng)圈。“螭”：古代傳說(shuō)中蛟龍之類的動(dòng)物?！碍嬬蟆保河镁€縷連綴珠寶而成的裝飾品。原為印度貴族之項(xiàng)飾，后隨佛傳入中國(guó)?！叭Α保褐疙?xiàng)圈，是清代大家閨秀的主要飾物。

“縷金百蝶穿花大紅洋緞?wù)y襖”：指一種緊身襖。“縷金”：指以金線繡成的繡品?！敖鹁€”：亦稱“錦線”，古稱“金縷”，故曰“縷金”?！鞍俚┗ā保褐富ǖ麍D案?！按蠹t”：又稱“猩紅”或“猩猩紅”?！霸凭劇保嚎椬髟菩位y的錦緞。亦說(shuō)“庫(kù)緞”，云錦的一種。云錦，為我國(guó)傳統(tǒng)工藝美術(shù)絲織品。南京所產(chǎn)，始于南北朝，盛于明清。用提花組織，錦紋瑰麗有如云彩，故名。傳統(tǒng)品種中有庫(kù)緞、庫(kù)錦和妝花三大類。衣服前后兩幅合縫處叫“裉”，腰部叫“腰裉”，腋窩叫“抬裉”。窄裉可以顯出身材纖細(xì)，是乾隆年間入時(shí)而又流行的一種樣式。

“五彩刻絲石青銀鼠褂”：“五彩”：指刻絲的飾紋?！翱探z”：在絲織品上用絲平織成花紋圖案，與織錦和刺繡不同。宋莊綽《雞肋篇》卷上：“定州織刻絲，不用大機(jī)，以熟色絲經(jīng)于木杼上，隨所欲作花草禽獸狀。以小梭織緯時(shí)，先留其處，方以雜色線綴于經(jīng)緯之上，合以成文，若不相連。承空視之，如雕鏤之象，故名刻絲。”明曹昭《格古要論》卷八：“刻絲作，宋時(shí)舊織者，白地或青地子，織詩(shī)詞山水或故事人物、花木鳥(niǎo)獸，其配色如傅彩，又謂之刻絲作，此物甚難得?！薄般y鼠”：亦名白鼠、石鼠。形略似鼬，毛短色白。亦說(shuō)白貂。在這里指銀鼠皮做的襖里?！肮印保骸肚灏揞愨n》“服飾類”：“外衣也。禮服之加于袍外者，謂之外褂。男女皆同此名稱，惟制式不同耳?！?/p>

“翡翠撒花洋縐裙”：“翡翠”：本為鳥(niǎo)名?！墩f(shuō)文》：“翠，青羽雀也?！边@里指一種近似翡翠鳥(niǎo)羽色的藍(lán)色?；蚍Q“翠藍(lán)”?！叭龌ā保褐赣盟榛ǘ浣M成的圖案。因其分布如撒花狀，故稱。“洋縐”：即觳，為絲綢品種之一，輕而薄，略帶自然皺紋。(張俊等，1987：61-63)

◆ 茶未吃了，只見(jiàn)一個(gè)穿紅綾襖青緞掐牙背心的丫鬟走來(lái)笑說(shuō)：“太太說(shuō)，請(qǐng)林姑娘到那邊坐罷?！?曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第三回)

Before she had finished her tea in came a maid wearing a red silk coat and a blue satin sleeveless jacket with silk borders．With a smile this girl announced：“Her Ladyship asks Miss Lin to go in and take a seat over there．”(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

【注】“綾”：古代絲織物名。漢以后開(kāi)始盛行。明張自烈《正字通·系部》：“織素為文者曰綺，光如鏡面有花卉者曰綾”?！扒唷保褐感?，即深黑色。清李漁《閑情偶寄》卷七：“大家富室，衣色皆尚青是已?！庇衷疲骸芭又僬?，尚銀紅桃紅，稍長(zhǎng)者尚月白，未幾而銀紅桃紅，皆變大紅，月白變藍(lán);再變則大紅變紫，藍(lán)變石青。迨鼎革以后，則石青與紫皆罕見(jiàn)，無(wú)論少長(zhǎng)男婦，皆衣青矣。”“掐牙”：在衣服的滾邊內(nèi)，再加嵌一條很細(xì)的錦緞滾條，作為裝飾，叫“掐牙”。“背心”：《清稗類鈔》“服飾類”：“半臂，漢時(shí)名繡袦，即今之坎肩也，又名背心?！?張俊等，1987：66)

◆ 頭上戴著束發(fā)嵌寶紫金冠，齊眉勒著二龍搶珠抹額;穿一件二色金百蝶穿花大紅箭袖，束著五彩絲攢花結(jié)長(zhǎng)穗宮絳，外罩石青起花八團(tuán)倭緞排穗褂;登著青緞粉底小朝靴。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第三回)

He had on a golden coronet studded with jewels and a golden chaplet in the form of two dragons fighting for a pearl．His red archer's jacket，embroidered with golden butterflies and flowers，was tied with a colored tasseled palace sash．Over this he wore a turquoise fringed coat of Japanese satin with a raised pattern of flowers in eight bunches．His court boots were of black satin with white soles．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

【注】“紫金冠”：又名“太子冠”，即把頭發(fā)扎束在頂部的一種髻冠。明劉若愚《明官吏》水集“束發(fā)冠”：“其制如戲子所戴者，用金累絲造之，上嵌睛綠珠石。每一座，有值數(shù)百金，或千金條、二千金者。四爪蛟龍，在上蟠繞。下加額子一件，亦如戲子所戴?！薄白辖稹保杭醋夏ソ穑环N精美的金子。

“二龍搶珠”：指摸額上的裝飾圖案?！懊~”：本是束額的頭巾，后帽箍一類的飾物，也叫“抹額”。

“二色金”：指花蝶是用深淺兩色金線所繡成。“箭袖”：一種窄袖袍服，原為便于射箭。清代有箭衣外罩，以戎裝為禮服。

“攢花結(jié)”：用五彩絲攢聚成花朵圖案的結(jié)子。“攢心梅花”紋樣的簡(jiǎn)稱，是絲絳的一種裝飾性的“結(jié)扣”?！伴L(zhǎng)穗”指絳帶兩端下垂的穗紫，俗稱“流蘇”?！皩m絳”：宮中流行的一種系在腰間的絲帶。

“起花”：因在石青色之倭緞上加繡了八個(gè)彩團(tuán)，故曰“起花”?！鞍藞F(tuán)”：指褂子上所繡的八個(gè)彩團(tuán)圖案，本是清代婦女禮服的一種圖飾?！百痢保喝毡局f稱，“倭緞”：又叫東洋緞，是當(dāng)時(shí)極為珍貴的一種厚密的絲織物。《在園雜志》卷一：“今厚繒易通名曰緞，有五絲、八絲、內(nèi)造、漢府、官素、平花、帽緞、倭緞各種，花紋顏色，隨時(shí)變幻，亦窮工極巧矣?！薄芭潘搿保褐腹幼酉旅媾啪Y的彩穗。一說(shuō)，即“麥穗”，因音近變異而成“排穗”。指一種皮軟毛長(zhǎng)的貴重羊皮。《在園雜志》卷一：“羊皮貴羔而賤老，人皆知之，獨(dú)口外則不然。有皮軟而毛長(zhǎng)著，俗名麥穗子，言其毛長(zhǎng)如麥穗也?？谕怙L(fēng)高，非此不足以御之。雖公卿貴官，至彼貂裘之上，亦必服此一件，取其毛大壓風(fēng)也。內(nèi)地亦有此種，不如口外者佳?！?/p>

“青緞”：黑色光緞?！胺鄣住保褐秆サ滓园咨苛贤砍??！肚灏揞愨n》“服飾類”：“靴之材，春夏秋皆以緞為之，冬則以建絨，有三年之喪者則以布?！薄俺ァ保悍筋^靴的別稱?！肚灏揞愨n》“服飾類”：“凡靴之頭皆尖，惟著以入朝者則方。或曰沿明制也。”《京師偶記》：“行必靴，一以避塵，一以壯觀，非若江南之可以履也?！?張俊等，1987：68-69)

◆ 一時(shí)回來(lái)，再看，已換了冠帶：頭上周圍一轉(zhuǎn)的短發(fā)，都結(jié)成小辮，紅絲結(jié)束，共攢至頂中胎發(fā)，總編一根大辮，黑亮如漆，從頂至梢，一串四顆大珠，用金八寶墜角;身上穿著銀紅撒花半舊大襖，仍舊帶著項(xiàng)圈、寶玉、寄名鎖、護(hù)身符等物;下面半露松花撒花綾褲腿、錦邊彈墨襪、厚底大紅鞋。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第三回)

He returned before long，having changed his clothes．His short hair in small plaints tied with red silk was drawn up on the crown of his head and braided into one thick queue as black and glossy as lacquer，sporting four large pearls attached to golden pendants in the form of the eight precious things．His coat of a flower patters on a bright red ground was not new，and he still wore the torque，the precious jade，a lock-shaped amulet containing his Buddhistic name，and a lucky charm．Below could be glimpsed light green flowered satin trousers，black-dotted stockings with brocade borders，and thick-soled scarlet shoes．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

【注】“墜角”：系于器物下端的小裝飾品，在本例中指的是辮梢所墜的飾物。“寄名鎖”：一種習(xí)俗，怕小孩夭亡，在神或僧道前寄名為弟子，并用鎖形飾物掛在頸間，表示借神之命鎖住，以保長(zhǎng)壽，稱為“寄名鎖”，或謂“長(zhǎng)命鎖”，由“百索”演變而來(lái)。漢時(shí)民族于五月五日，以五色朱索飾門戶，云可以避惡氣。后代于此日以五色線戴小兒頸上，或以系臂，以避不祥，謂之“百索”，亦名“長(zhǎng)命縷”。“護(hù)身符”：一種符箓。舊時(shí)佛教、道教及巫師用朱筆或墨筆在紙上畫上佛、菩薩、鬼神的像，或?qū)懮现湔Z(yǔ)，畫上一種似字非字的圖形，讓人懸之于身，以為可受其保護(hù)，避邪消災(zāi)，叫“護(hù)身符”。

◆ 鳳姐看襲人頭上戴著幾枝金釵珠釧，倒華麗;又看身上穿著桃紅百子刻絲銀鼠襖子，蔥綠盤金彩繡綿裙，外面穿著青緞灰鼠褂。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第五十一回)

Xifeng saw that she had some gold pins ornamented with pearls in her hair，and was wearing an ermine-lined peach-red silk tapestry jacket with a hundred-beads design，a yellowish-green padded skirt embroidered with colored silk and gold thread，and a black satin coat lined with squirrel．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

◆ 寶玉只穿著大紅棉紗小襖子，下面綠綾彈墨拾褲，散著褲腳，倚著一個(gè)各色玫瑰芍藥花瓣的玉色夾紗新枕頭，和芳官兩個(gè)先劃拳。當(dāng)時(shí)芳官滿口嚷熱，只穿著一件玉色青駝絨三色緞子斗的水田小夾襖，束著一條柳綠汗巾，底下拾水紅撒花夾褲，也散著褲腿。頭上齊額編著一圈小辮，總歸至頂心，結(jié)一根鵝卵粗粗的總辮，拖在腦后。在右耳眼里只塞著米粒大小的一個(gè)小玉塞子，在左耳上單帶著一個(gè)白果大小的硬紅鑲金大墜子，越顯的面如滿月猶白，眼如秋水還清。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第六十三回)

Baoyu himself stripped down to a scarlet linen jacket and green dotted satin trousers，letting the ends of the trouser legs hang lose．Leaning on a jade-colored gauze cushion filled with all sorts of fresh rose and peony petals，he started playing the finger-guessing game with Fangguan．

Fangguan，who had also been complaining of the heat，had on only a short lined satin jacket—a patchwork of red，blue and jade-colored squares，a green sash，and pink trousers with a floral design left untied at her ankles．Her hair，woven in small plaits，was gathered on the crown of her head into a thick braid hanging down at the back．In her right ear she wore a jade stop no bigger than a grain of rice，in her left a ruby-ear-ring set in gold the size of gingko nut，making her face seem whiter than the full moon，her eyes clearer than water in autumn．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

【注】“小襖兒”：即內(nèi)衣，今稱襯衫，與短襖不同。“玉色青駝絨三色緞子斗的水田小夾襖”：用玉色、紅青、駝色三種顏色的緞子小塊拼做的小夾襖?！八铩保杭此镆拢蚨嘤酶魃叫尾?jí)K連綴而成，似水田界畫，故名?！坝袢印保杭磋傆竦亩h(huán)?！坝布t鑲金大墜子”：鑲嵌有金飾的硬紅耳墜。硬紅：指珊瑚或紅寶石之類。(張俊等，1987：1026)

◆ (方鴻漸)跟了上橋，這滑滑的橋面隨足微沉復(fù)起，數(shù)不清的藤縫里露出深深在下墨綠色的水，他命令眼睛只注視孫小姐旗袍的后襟，不敢瞧旁處。(錢鐘書(shū)《圍城》)

As he followed her onto the bridge，the smooth surface gave way slightly under his feet，then bounced back again．The inky green color of the water far below showed through the countless cracks in the rattan．He fixed his eyes on the back of hem of Miss Sun's Chinese dress(ch'i-p'ao)and didn't dare glanceeither side．(珍妮·凱利、茅國(guó)權(quán)譯)

◆ 寶玉道：“橫豎我不出門，又不帶冠子勒子，不過(guò)打幾根散辮子就完了?！闭f(shuō)著，又千妹妹萬(wàn)妹妹的央告。湘云只得扶他的頭過(guò)來(lái)，一一梳篦。在家不戴冠，并不總角，只將四圍短發(fā)編成小辮，往頂心發(fā)上歸了總，編一根大辮，紅絳結(jié)住。自發(fā)頂至辮梢，一路四顆珍珠，下面有金墜腳。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第二十一回)

“I'm not going out today anyway，and I'm not going to wear a cap，”he(Baoyu)persisted．“Just plait it anyhow．”

He coaxed and wheedled her with endless terms of endearment until Xiangyun took hold of his head and combed his hair．Since he wore no cap at home，she simply plaited the short hair round his head and looped them together on top in one big queue tied with a crimson braid．This braid was decorated with four pearls and had a golden pendant at the end．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

◆ 只見(jiàn)張道士捧了盤子，走到跟前笑道：“眾人托小道的福，見(jiàn)了哥兒的玉，實(shí)在可罕。都沒(méi)什么敬賀之物，這是他們各人傳道的法器，都愿意為敬賀之禮。哥兒便不稀罕，只留著在房里玩耍賞人罷。”賈母聽(tīng)說(shuō)，向盤內(nèi)看時(shí)，只見(jiàn)也有金璜，也有玉塊，或有事事如意，或有歲歲平安，皆是珠穿寶貫，玉琢金鏤，共有三五十件。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第二十九回)

As he spoke，Zhang appeared with the tray．“Everyone felt most obliged to me for the chance to see Master Bao's jade，which they think most wonderful，”he declared．“They've nothing else worth offering，so they've sent these Taoist amulets as tokens of their respect．If Master Bao thinks they're nothing special，he can keep them as toys or give them away，just as he pleases．”

The Lady Dowager saw in the tray several dozen amulets of gold and jade engraved with the inscriptions．“May All Your Wishes Come True”and“Eternal Peace”．Each was studded with pearls or jewels and finely carved．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

◆ 寶玉便邀著黛玉同往稻香村。黛玉換上掐金挖云紅香羊皮小靴，罩了一件大紅羽紗面白狐貍里的鶴氅，束一條青金閃綠雙環(huán)四合如意絳，頭上罩了雪帽。二人一齊踏雪而來(lái)。

只見(jiàn)眾姊妹都在那邊，都是一色大紅猩猩氈與羽毛緞斗篷，獨(dú)李紈穿一件青哆羅呢對(duì)襟褂子，薛寶釵穿一件蓮青斗紋錦上添花洋線番羓絲的鶴氅;邢岫煙仍是家常舊衣，并無(wú)遮雪之衣。一時(shí)史湘云來(lái)了，穿著賈母與他的一件貂鼠腦袋面子大毛黑灰鼠里子里外發(fā)燒大褂子，頭上帶著一頂挖云鵝黃片金里大紅猩猩氈昭君套，又圍著大貂鼠風(fēng)領(lǐng)。黛玉先笑道：“你們瞧瞧，孫行者來(lái)了。他一般的也拿著雪褂子，故意裝出個(gè)小騷達(dá)子來(lái)?！毕嬖菩Φ溃骸澳銈兦莆依镱^打扮的。”一面說(shuō)，一面脫了褂子。只見(jiàn)他里頭穿著一件半新的靠色三鑲領(lǐng)袖秋香色盤金五色繡龍窄褃小袖衿銀鼠短襖，里面短短的一件水紅妝緞狐肷褶子，腰里緊緊束著一條蝴蝶結(jié)子長(zhǎng)穗五色宮絳，腳下也穿著鹿皮小靴，越顯的蜂腰猿背，鶴勢(shì)螂形。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第四十九回)

Baoyu urged her(Daiyu)to go with him to Paddy-Sweet Cottage．Having put on red boots lined with lambskin and with a gold-thread cloud-design appliqué，a crimson silk cape lined with white fox-fur，a green and gold plaited belt with double rings，and a snow-hat，she walked with him through the snow to Li Wan's apartments．There they found the other girls assembled，most of them in red caped of wool or satin．Li Wan，however，had on a gown of blue velvet buttoned down the middle，Baochai a pale purple woolen cape embroidered with flower designs，and Xiuyan her ordinary indoor clothes without any outer garments to keep off the snow．

Presently Xiangyun arrived wearing an ermine coat lined with grey squirrel given her by the Lady Dowager，a scarlet woolen hood with a goslingyellow appliqué of cloud designs and a golden lining，and a big sable collar．

“Look，here comes the Monkey King!”exclaimed Daiyu laughing．“She's got a cape too，yet she's dressed herself up like a saucy little Tartar．”

“You should see what I'm wearing underneath，”chuckled Xiangyun．

Taking off the coat she revealed a narrow-sleeved，none too new greenish yellow satin tunic lined with white squirrel，with fur-lined cuffs and collar，which was embroidered with dragons in gold thread and colored silks．Her pink satin breeches were lined with for fur．A long-tasselled colored butterfly belt was fastened tightly round her waist．Her boots were of green leather．With her slender build she looked thoroughly neat and dashing．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

【注】“掐金挖云紅香羊皮小靴”：掐金：縫里嵌上金線。挖云：挖空成云頭形的花邊，再墊上其他顏色的里子，構(gòu)成裝飾圖案。紅香羊皮：清代蒙古地方出產(chǎn)的一種細(xì)揉皮，是常列入貢品中的物品。小靴：小型的靴，是為雨具。鶴氅：原指用鳥(niǎo)羽制成的衣裘。在《紅樓夢(mèng)》里指御寒的外衣。青金：黑色。在《紅樓夢(mèng)》里指黑色絲線。閃綠：黑色絲線加綠色絲線織成絲帶，見(jiàn)光閃爍，故曰“閃綠”。雙環(huán)四合如意絳：指絲帶上結(jié)扣的紋樣。哆羅呢：一種闊幅呢料。對(duì)襟褂子：外褂的一種，用以避雪?！吧徢喽芳y錦上添花洋線番羓絲的鶴氅”：指用外國(guó)種的羊毛線織制而成的氅衣。蓮青斗紋、錦上添花：皆指衣上紋飾。番：舊時(shí)對(duì)西方邊境各族的稱呼，又指來(lái)自外族或外國(guó)的事物。貂鼠：即貂，貂皮為珍貴皮料?；沂螅航q鼠的一種。尾如松鼠，背灰腹白，產(chǎn)山中，成群穴居，皮毛名貴。背上毛較長(zhǎng)，呈黑色，腹下毛呈煙色，因比一般灰鼠毛長(zhǎng)，故名“大毛黑灰鼠”。里外發(fā)燒：表里都有毛、正反兩面都可以穿的皮褂子，俗稱“里外發(fā)燒”。挖云鵝黃片金里大紅猩猩氈昭君套：指一種帽面為紅色猩氈、有挖云紋飾、帽里為鵝黃片金的女式風(fēng)帽。片金：在《紅樓夢(mèng)》中指的是一種絲織品。風(fēng)領(lǐng)：一種防風(fēng)的領(lǐng)子?！肚灏揞愨n》“服飾類”：“加于項(xiàng)，覆于肩，形如菱?！庇帧吧w禮服例無(wú)領(lǐng)，別于袍之上加以硬領(lǐng)(春秋以淺湖色緞，夏以紗，冬以絨或皮。有喪者則以黑布)。下結(jié)以布或綢緞，有鈕綰之，意謂領(lǐng)而衣也?！笨可傤I(lǐng)袖秋香色盤金五色繡龍窄褃小袖衿銀鼠短襖：指一種衣袖領(lǐng)口有靠紅色三道滾條的、以金線及彩絲繡成龍飾的、窄袖大襟、秋香色銀鼠窄肷襖?？可褐讣t色。鑲：婦女衣服上的滾條，一道曰一鑲;三鑲，即三道。領(lǐng)袖：指衣領(lǐng)和袖口。秋香色：指短襖的本色。盤金五色繡龍：指以金線和彩絲繡成龍形花飾。小袖：窄袖。水紅妝緞狐肷褶子：指一種水紅色妝緞面的狐裘。狐肷：指狐胸腹部和腋下的皮毛，屬大毛兒。褶子：本為傳統(tǒng)戲裝的便服，一般用綢子制成。在《紅樓夢(mèng)》中指一種大領(lǐng)的外衣，長(zhǎng)僅及膝。蜂腰猿背，鶴勢(shì)螂形：形容一種俏麗的武士樣子。(張俊等，1987： 780-781)

◆ 我八歲時(shí)節(jié)，跟我父親到西海沿子買洋貨，誰(shuí)知真真國(guó)的女孩子，才十五歲，那臉面就和那西洋畫上的美人一樣，也披著黃頭發(fā)，打著聯(lián)垂，滿頭帶的都是珊瑚、貓兒眼、祖母綠這些石頭;身上穿著金絲織的鎖子甲洋錦襖袖;帶著倭刀，也是鑲金嵌寶的，實(shí)在畫兒上的也沒(méi)他好看。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第五十二回)

When I was eight，my father took me to the coast of the western sea to buy foreign goods，and there we saw a girl from the land of ZhenZhen，who had just turned fifteen，with a face like those beauties in Western paintings．Her long golden hair was plaited，and in it she wore precious stones like coral，amber，cat's-eye and emerald．She had on golden chain-mail and a jacket of foreign brocade，and she carried a Japanese sword inlaid with gold and studded with gems—in fact，she was even lovelier than those beauties in the paintings．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

【注】“真真國(guó)”：其說(shuō)不一，或指真臘國(guó)(今柬埔寨);或指中亞以至阿拉伯諸伊斯蘭教國(guó);或指荷蘭?！奥?lián)垂”：在《紅樓夢(mèng)》中，指發(fā)辮，即兩辮分垂左右的意思?！版i子甲”：或即“鎖子錦”，指錦上的紋飾。

◆ 賈母見(jiàn)寶玉身上穿著荔色哆羅呢的天馬箭袖，大紅猩氈盤金彩繡石青妝緞沿邊的排穗褂子。便命鴛鴦來(lái)：“把昨兒那一件烏云豹的氅衣給他罷?！兵x鴦答應(yīng)了，走去果取了一件來(lái)。寶玉看時(shí)，金翠輝煌，碧彩閃爍，又不似寶琴所披之裊靨裘。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第五十二回)

The Lady Dowager noticed that Baoyu was wearing，over his brown velvet archer's coat lined with fox fur，a scarlet felt jacket embroidered with gold thread．Its slate-blue satin border was fringed with tassels．“Bring him that peacock-feather cape taken out yesterday，”the old lady told Yuanyang．The maid promptly brought in a cape which shimmered gold，green and blue and was no less magnificent，in a different style，than Baoqin's cape of wild-duck down．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

◆ 薛蝌只得起來(lái)，開(kāi)了門看時(shí)，卻是寶蟾，攏著頭發(fā)，掩著懷，穿一件片錦邊琵琶襟小緊身，上面系一條松花綠半新的汗巾，下面并未穿裙，正露著石榴紅灑花夾褲，一雙新繡紅鞋，原來(lái)寶蟾尚未梳洗，恐怕見(jiàn)人，趕早來(lái)取家伙。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第九十一回)

When there was no response，he had to get up and open the door．He found it was Baochan again，her hair disheveled，her clothes loose．She had on a tight-fitting bodice with a gold border and rows of long buttons and loops in front，over which she had tied a none too new dark green sash．Asshe was not wearing a skirt，he could see her pomegranate-red trousers with floral designs and her new embroidered red slippers．She had evidently not yet made her toilet but come early to fetch the hamper to avoid being seen．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

【注】“琵琶襟小緊身”：右襟短缺的貼身背心。“緊身”：即背心。清曹庭棟《老老恒言》卷三：“胸前加短襟，袖少窄長(zhǎng)，過(guò)肘三四寸，下邊縫聯(lián)，名曰緊身。隨寒暖為加外之衣。夾與綿與皮必俱備，為常服之最適?！薄芭媒蟆保呵謇疃贰稉P(yáng)州畫舫錄》卷十：“清明前后，肩擔(dān)賣食之輩，類皆俊秀少年，競(jìng)尚妝飾，每著藕藍(lán)布衫，反紉鉤邊，缺其衽，謂之琵琶衿。”即衣之大襟邊不到腋下，至胸前即止，后以排列較密的鈕扣連接。這是清代便服前襟的一種樣式。(張俊等，1987：1452)

◆ 鳳姐走到床前回賈母。岫煙是妙玉的舊相識(shí)，先走出去接他。只見(jiàn)妙玉頭戴妙常髻，身上穿一件月白素綢襖兒，外罩一件水田青緞鑲邊長(zhǎng)背心，拴著秋香色的絲絳，腰下系一條淡墨畫的白綾裙，手執(zhí)麈尾念珠，跟著一個(gè)侍兒，飄飄拽拽的走來(lái)。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第一百零九回)

Xifeng went to the old lady's bedside to tell her this，while Xiuyan—Miaoyu's old friend—went out to meet her．Miaoyu was wearing a nun's cap，a pale grey plain silk tunic under a long，sleeveless checked jacket with dark silk borders，a yellow silk sash and a white skirt with dark designs．Holding a whisk and her beads she swept gracefully in，attended by a maid．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

【注】“妙常髻”：“妙?！保杭搓惷畛＃未鷰Оl(fā)修行的女尼。(張俊等，1987：1677)

◆ 說(shuō)了不多幾句話，寶玉也來(lái)了，進(jìn)門見(jiàn)了王夫人，不過(guò)規(guī)規(guī)矩矩說(shuō)了幾句，便命人除去抹額，脫了袍服，拉了靴子，便一頭滾在王夫人懷里。王夫人便用手滿身滿臉摩挲撫弄他，寶玉也搬著王夫人的脖子說(shuō)長(zhǎng)道短的。(曹雪芹《紅樓夢(mèng)》第二十五回)

Having greeted his mother and made some polite conversation，he told the maids to help him off with his chaplet，gown and boots，then nestled up to his mother．As she stroked and caressed him he put his arms round her neck and chattered．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

◆ 武書(shū)辭了出去，才走到利涉橋，遇見(jiàn)一個(gè)人，頭戴方巾，身穿舊布直裰，腰系絲絳，腳下芒鞋，身上掮著行李，花白胡須，憔悴枯槁。(吳敬梓《儒林外史》第三十七回)

After leaving Tu，Wu Shu had gone no further than Lucky Crossing Bridge when he met a man in a square cap，old cotton gown，silk girdle and straw sandals．His luggage hung in two bundles from a shoulder pole．His hair was grey，and he was haggard and thin．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

◆ 那時(shí)天色已明，看那人時(shí)，三十多歲光景，身穿短襖，腳下八搭麻鞋，面上微有髭須。(吳敬梓《儒林外史》第三十九回)

It was light enough now for him to see this fellow：a man in his thirties with a stubbly growth on his chin，who was wearing a short jacket and hempen shoes．(楊憲益、戴乃迭譯)

附一

清代命婦的官服分袍、褂、襯。袍用卷領(lǐng)，兩袖上月白色的大挖坑。大挖坑即袖頭，俗稱馬蹄袖。補(bǔ)服也和品級(jí)官員的圖案相同，只是改方補(bǔ)為圓補(bǔ)。氅衣袖口，用花絳白色繡花卷袖。補(bǔ)衣則用舒袖。

青年女子和新婦的氅衣用大紅色。中年婦女用耦合色。輩分高但已育子女的婦女，雖年輕，也要用深紫色。老婦、寡婦用深藍(lán)色。紅色、耦合色的氅衣，周身鑲大花邊。紫色、藍(lán)色氅衣，只鑲右襟一邊。襯衣的顏色使用比較寬泛，各遂所好，一般使用淺色材料制作。未婚女子不穿袍褂，只穿氅、襯。氅、襯不上卷領(lǐng)，以圍巾、手絹圍在頸間代替領(lǐng)子。

女便衣也分皮、棉、單、夾、紗數(shù)種。顏色隨意，用寬、窄花絳子沿邊。穿著時(shí)外加背心。背心一律右大襟，周邊用花絳滾鑲。中年以后，冬天也可外罩馬褂。(清代命婦的官服，摘自啟功，2006，《啟功給你講紅樓》)

附二

清朝皇帝以至官員的穿戴皆有嚴(yán)格的規(guī)定，統(tǒng)稱為冠服，分朝服、吉服、常服、行服，每類又分冬夏兩式。此外還有雨服。朝服包括朝冠、朝袍、端罩、朝帶等。吉服包括吉服冠、蟒袍與補(bǔ)褂。朝服與吉服都可以作禮服。不過(guò)什么場(chǎng)合穿戴什么服飾，要根據(jù)制度習(xí)慣與即時(shí)的命令。譬如，嘉慶九年以前，元旦、萬(wàn)壽、太廟，南郊祈谷等典禮，出席的官員著裝一律為朝服。此后改為蟒袍補(bǔ)褂的吉服。一般來(lái)說(shuō)，朝服與吉服只是正式典禮與年節(jié)慶典的服裝，平日里，無(wú)論皇帝與官員都穿戴常服。常服就是普通的袍子外加補(bǔ)褂。行服顧名思義是出行騎馬的服裝，譬如大家所熟悉的黃馬褂即屬于行服，又稱行褂。

官帽分秋帽、涼帽。秋帽即暖帽，分呢檐、江獺、重鼠、染貂數(shù)種。三品以上以及翰林、詹事府、六科、御史等官員，方可戴本色貂檐帽。涼帽分白羅胎、萬(wàn)絲胎兩種。在穿單、紗袍褂時(shí)，戴白羅胎帽;在穿亮紗、薄紗時(shí)，戴萬(wàn)絲胎帽。萬(wàn)絲胎由藤絲、竹絲編織而成?；首用表斉c安項(xiàng)珠的官帽完全不同，頂為紅絨結(jié)，即用紅絨結(jié)成的算盤疙瘩，與帽纓連為一體。清朝官員穿戴最多的是補(bǔ)服，其次是蟒袍。

補(bǔ)服，按品級(jí)、職權(quán)分類在外褂的前后心繡制圖案。超品的王公勛戚依級(jí)別各有定制，親王、郡王、貝勒、貝子、奉恩公與不入八分鎮(zhèn)國(guó)公，皆龍圖圓補(bǔ)。親王、郡王四團(tuán)補(bǔ)。親王兩正兩行龍，出自特恩可用四正龍;郡王四行龍，前后兩肩各一。貝勒至不入八分鎮(zhèn)國(guó)公皆兩行龍團(tuán)補(bǔ);不入八分輔國(guó)公則行龍方補(bǔ);民公、侯、伯則四爪正蟒方補(bǔ);品級(jí)官員皆方補(bǔ)，文繪飛禽，武繪猛獸，監(jiān)察官員繪獬豸。從不入分輔國(guó)公到最低級(jí)的九品官員，皆是方補(bǔ)，前后各一。文官補(bǔ)子圖案依次為：一品文鶴，二品錦雞，三品孔雀，四品文雁，五品白鷴，六品鷺絲，七品鸂鶒，八品鵪鶉，九品練雀。武官補(bǔ)子圖案依次為：一品麒麟，二品獅子;三品豹;四品虎;五品熊;六品彪;七品也是彪，八品犀牛，九品海馬。宗室鎮(zhèn)國(guó)將軍、輔國(guó)將軍、奉國(guó)將軍、奉恩將軍，則視武職一至四品的補(bǔ)子圖案。

蟒袍又稱花衣，一至三品繡九蟒四爪，四至六品八蟒四爪，七至九品五蟒四爪，袍的下擺繡立水圖案。每年冬至、元旦、萬(wàn)壽等盛大節(jié)日，七品以上官員必須穿蟒。譬如皇帝生日的萬(wàn)壽，則要慶祝七天，故又稱之為“花衣期”。官員家逢有喜慶如結(jié)婚、做壽等，也可以穿戴。不過(guò)穿蟒并不意味著可以免褂，蟒袍外罩補(bǔ)褂，就是所謂的吉服，只有夏季暑熱時(shí)期，才可以敞穿蟒袍。

官服的顏色分石青(藍(lán)黑)、紅青(黑中泛紫紅)、元青(純黑)，以石青為正色。

朝珠，文官五品、武官四品以上者才能佩帶。翰林院、禮部、太常寺、光祿寺、鴻臚寺、國(guó)子監(jiān)等衙門的五品以下官員，則不受此限制，無(wú)論什么品級(jí)，都可以佩掛。朝珠108顆，用四枚佛頭平均隔開(kāi)，每27顆放置一顆佛頭。佩掛時(shí)，佛頭前三后一，并附帶記捻三褂，男左雙右單，女左單右雙。身后的佛頭下墜方形背云，背云下系墜腳。朝珠質(zhì)料以珊瑚最為貴重，非位至極品的官員不能佩帶。

兇服指的是喪服，又稱孝服、衰服，是在喪禮上為死者穿戴的孝服。根據(jù)與死者關(guān)系的遠(yuǎn)近，分為五等：斬衰、齊衰、大功、小功、緦麻。如《紅樓夢(mèng)》中賈敬煉丹身亡，賈珍賈蓉父子接到兇信，自外趕回，必然要立刻按禮換上喪服。賈珍作為孝子穿斬衰服，賈蓉作為孝孫穿齊衰服。

(朝服、吉服與兇服，摘自啟功，2006，《啟功給你講紅樓》)